How build the first bed: When you build your first bed, simply start watching the video tutorial in chronological order, it will prompt you as needed to look at your blueprint that corresponds to the model you are building. DO NOT try and use only the blueprints on the first bed build – there are lots of details included in the video tutorial that are not part of the blueprint. After you have built 1-2 beds, you’ll be able to build the following beds using only the blueprints as you will have all the intangible details memorized that are discussed in the video tutorial.
Jigs used for the build process: Plans to build the jigs used can be found in any models’ blueprint, and are accompanied by a corresponding video module detailing the specs for building the jig. You will be able to use all jigs repeatedly for all models. You will need 3 sets of ears on your table jig – a set for wide frame, a set for narrow frame, and a set for cab/chassis. The blueprints only cover the ear width for the corresponding model of the blueprint you are looking at, but you will eventually need 3 sets of ears for the 3 frame widths. All three sets of ears can be welded on the top side of the same table jig. (If this is unclear, see blueprints and video tutorial module 2)
Install Supplies on Hand: Refer to Third Party Store section below to make sure and have the stated qty of installation supplies listed. Failing to have the supplies on hand will result in delays in install.
Bumper Pull and Gooseneck Hitches: We recommend that you never build hitches into a flatbed, always use hitches that are installed directly to the pickup frame. For all factory bed take-off models, the flatbeds are designed to fit with the factory rear receiver. A lot of customers that use a gooseneck ball will already have a gooseneck ball installed. If this is the case, you can use the existing gooseneck ball hitch, and the flatbed will simply install over the top and have an access hole in the top of the deck. If they don’t have a gooseneck ball already installed and want one, use a rated fixed plate ball and install it directly to their pickup frame 2-3 inches in front of the rear axle. A lot of newer pickups have a gooseneck ball-ready factory cross member that you can simply buy a turnover ball to slide into. If this is the case, buying the ball kit to fit is preferable rather than building the hitch. For cab and chassis models, always order an engineered, rated receiver. Never build a receiver from scratch. Here’s an example of a cab and chassis receiver.
Checklists to Print: Make sure to print a copy of both the flatbed build checklist and the flatbed install checklist and hang in the shop. Following these lists on every build ensures a correct build and install.
2013 and Newer Dodge Models: Diesel models have a molded fuel and DEF bezel. You’ll need to order this generic fuel filler neck and fuel cap then cut the def cap/fill out of the factory fuel bezel.
Luxury Models with blind spot/parking sensors: We recommend not building flatbeds for models with blind spot sensors built into the taillights – it can cause complicated electrical issues that you don’t want to be responsible for. Refer to our Luxury Model Blind Spot Sensor Instruction document for recommendations for each model. Parking sensors can be added; however, we do advise against offering parking sensors and informing the customer they won’t be useable as they often malfunction or don’t work properly. Factory backup cameras are a fairly simple and easy thing to integrate – we have a video tutorial module that explains the process (module 21d).
